Monday, June 13

DISCLAIMER: If my English isn’t too good, I apologize. I may have forgot some words (and grammar) since I finished my 16 year English immersion program, so my sentences might be a little shaky. Please don’t show this to Mr. Randall!

Instead of classes at San Felipe Neri, we spent the morning in the old city. Our day started at the “new” Cathedral of Cádiz (construction started in 1722), rather than the “old” Cathedral (built in 1263). The two structures are right next to each other and truly demonstrate the city’s antiquity. According to many historians, Cádiz is the oldest continuously inhabited city in western Europe. It was founded in 1104 B.C by Phoenician fishermen, who favored its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea. Over the years, the city’s rulers changed – from the Phoenicians to the Greeks to the Romans to the Visigoths to the Moors and eventually to the Spaniards. Each civilization built upon the remains of the last, leaving a peninsula with a rich history and culture. At Roxbury Latin, we also know the importance of the word “continuously,” so at least we finally found a people who see the world the way we do.

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The “new” Cathedral

Between the long flight and spending a whole day as glorified blue teletubbies (they said the suits were for “safety,” but the smirks of the workers said differently), we were pretty tired. We got our needed support in the form of reinforcements. Dr. Guerra came from Boston and met us at the Cathedral. Those who came early tried to pass the time by juggling a soccer ball – to the confusion of all natives who passed by. When the bells of the Cathedral struck 9:30, we began the main activities.

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“Football” in the square

On the steps of the new Cathedral, we reviewed the weekend’s events – both the trip to Seville and what we did on our “family day.” We also talked about our time at the Navantia shipyard. When we finished discussing the last few days, we started a scavenger hunt. While not as extensive as the previous “Amazing Race” style search we had a few days ago, there was a competitive atmosphere as we headed off in our respective directions. Our goals were simple. We needed to:

  1. Find some arches

  2. Draw a picture of a noble’s house

  3. Find a cross “sobre el agua” (above the water)

  4. Find a well

We had 15 minutes to complete this task. The first few tasks seemed easy and most groups accomplished them in the beginning. However, this “well” befuzzled many who tried to find it. My group spent over 10 minutes trying to locate this mythical water source, to no avail. When we returned and asked where it was, our guides brought us to a place we had passed countless times. The well was in fact covered by a stone structure that hid it from plain sight. We learned this was because when armies attacked cities in antiquity, they would try to target the water wells, as this resource would be essential to a populace during a siege. Therefore, the people of Cádiz hid their wells and built structures to protect them. Although we were frustrated we did not catch the well during our search, we were glad we came away with new knowledge – don’t stand next to a well in a city under siege.

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The well

We returned to the new Cathedral and received another sheet of paper. In groups, we each prepared presentations about an element of of the city that seemed ordinary, but really had an extensive and interesting history. Structures like arches and walls that we had passed so many times now took on new meanings. For example, did I know that that arch connecting those houses was over two millennia years old? That those arches once made up the wall that protected Cádiz from Napoleon? Of course not! But now I do!

On this tour of our neighborhood, we stepped into a small museum dedicated to a Roman theater. It was built by Lucius Cornelius Balbus in the first century B.C. We learned about the important role of Gaditanos (people from Cádiz) in the Roman Empire as merchants and fishermen. In the Colosseum, they even found a bench reserved for people from Cádiz, showing that their influence extended far beyond La Caleta. I’m sure this information was extremely interesting for the guys taking Latin – being able to put the surroundings in context. However, a lot of the names and Latin words flew over my head. A year in modern European history will do that to you.

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“Gaditanorum” (people of Cádiz)

After our visit at the Roman theater, we had the opportunity to indulge ourselves in the shops neighboring the Cathedral. A frequent stop was “Deportes Bernal” where they sold (relatively) cheap soccer gear. I made sure to load up on Cádiz F. C. merchandise.

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“Deportes Bernal”

After 30 minutes or so of shopping (and a little bit of ice cream) we were given a questionnaire to fill out concerning the role of the ocean in Cádiz life. In pairs, we tried to interrupt someone to help us with the questions. Mahammud Hashi and I were able to finish just in time. We then returned to our homes for lunch.

At home, I munched on the typical Andalucian meal – spaghetti with salmon. One surprise I was not expecting is that Heinz ketchup is served with almost every meal. Who knew? In all seriousness, this experience has really been a test for my taste buds. I have enjoyed all of it, but sometimes I don’t say the words exactly right – especially with food! One time, when my family asked me what I had eaten earlier that day, I responded that I had “chocos” with chocolate. At the time, I couldn’t figure out why my family looked like they were going to throw up. In reality, I had meant “churros” (the long pastries that you dip in chocolate). “Chocos” is actually a type of fish. And no, I didn’t put any fish in chocolate.

This type of communication error is more of the exception than the rule, and I feel like as I spend the more time here, the better I converse with my family. They are all very patient when I mess up and my pocket dictionary has helped a lot. I am fully acclimated to the timezone now, but am still waiting for the opportunity to hit double digits when I sleep. One day…

At 4:00, we met at the Caleta (which is a beach) for kayaking. We had already conquered Cádiz on the land (various scavenger hunts) and the air (Tower Tavira), so it seemed fit to complete the elemental trifecta and take a crack at the sea. After all, this week’s theme is Cádiz and the Sea. In groups of three we departed from the safety of the harbor into the unknown. The sand was scorching hot while we were dragging the kayaks, so we were more than happy to get in the boat and the water. Little did we know, but the next three hours would be one of the most traumatic experiences of our young lives.

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Cue Jaws music

Joe Nero, Rohan Balakrishna, and I made up the crew of our fine vessel. We had some trouble communicating and paddling in the right direction at first, but we eventually righted course and moved forward.

I want to put this on the record first – WE WERE NOT THE AGGRESSORS. Jimmy, Robert, Zach Milton, crashed into our boat splashed us with their paddles. We tried to remain peaceful, but they persisted. This totally isn’t biased either – 110% the truth. The War had begun.

On the open sea, mere anarchy was loosed upon the world. Our guides tried to instill some form of order, but is was every ship for itself. All the kayaks converged into a world of sound and fury. Common tactics included splashing water to distract oarsmen, ramming, or pushing boats with paddles with the ultimate goal of capsizing them. The “S.S Hog” (Jimmy, Robert, and Zach Milton) employed the unusual strategy of launching themselves onto our boats and bringing the fight to us. We tried to fight, but there was simply too many. We lost many good men that day. And Elson’s sunglasses. And our pride.

From the carnage, alliances emerged. Kayaks united to ensure a world of peace and stability. By the time we had reached the negotiation table, all kayaks had joined the alliance but us. We came bearing gifts, but they shut us down. The “S.S Hog” attacked by surprise. Their aquatic aggression led to more chaos, and in the fighting, the “S.S Hog” turned on one of its allies (James, Mahammud, and Ayinde). Facing a common foe, our two boats united to start a two front war. We entered the harbor as victors.

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The harbor

Although the clock read 6:30, the day wasn’t over. In Cádiz, the sun doesn’t set until really late, so we often have plans after the main activities of the day end. Today, we made a quick trip to the Playa Victoria (a beach), where we played American football. My team, which included Grady, James, Rohan, and Will, struggled at first. However, we overcame this slow start and defeated our opponents 3-2. Afterwards, swimming ensued.

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La Playa Victoria

It’s hard to say today was by far the best, because all days here are their own adventures and so amazing! However, this day seemed a little more special to all of us as we did such a myriad of things. We learned about the city’s history AND had some good ol’ fun in the process. The sun finally sets on 24 well-spent hours. When it rises, I know we’ll have 24 more!

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-Andrew Steinberg

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